Just how much diversity is there within Gesha in Panama?

The story of Gesha is a remarkable one. According to World Coffee Research, this highly sought-after variety was initially found in the forests of Ethiopia in the 1930s. From there, it was sent to research institutes in Tanzania, Kenya, and Costa Rica before making its way to Panama in the 1960s. Since then, the country has become synonymous with Gesha, largely thanks to high-end auctions like Best of Panama (BoP) and World Coffee Championships such as the World Barista Championship.

At auctions like BoP, washed Geshas have their own category, with natural Geshas and other varieties competing in separate categories. All categories perform well on the scoresheet and receive high prices.

Gesha’s exceptional cup quality and floral characteristics are often best highlighted by washed processing methods. In turn, washed Geshas tend to perform well at auctions like BoP.

There is, however, plenty of potential for diversity within Gesha, particularly in ongoing innovation in processing. In recent years, Panamanian producers have been experimenting with different techniques to create entirely new flavour profiles for Gesha without compromising its inherent cup characteristics.

To learn more, I spoke to David Disuanco, the marketing manager at Archers Coffee, and Kai Janson, a producer at Janson Coffee. 

You may also like our article on why there is no “best” origin for Gesha.

How Panama became synonymous with Gesha

Although it originated in Ethiopia and now grows in an increasing number of producing countries, Gesha is perhaps most commonly associated with Panama.

During the 1930s, researchers collected seeds from Ethiopia and sent them to Kenya and Tanzania, where the variety was first recorded as “Geisha” – a common variation of its name. In the 1950s, the UN’s Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) sent some of the seedlings to the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Centre (CATIE) in Costa Rica.

CATIE then supplied the seeds to the Panamanian government, which distributed them to farms in Boquete. One of them was Hacienda La Esmeralda, which changed Gesha’s trajectory in the specialty coffee market in the early 2000s.

Led by the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama and first launched in 1996, the BoP competitions and auctions have allowed the country’s producers to firmly establish themselves in the specialty coffee market, showcasing truly exceptional quality Gesha.

At the 2004 auction, Hacienda La Esmeralda sold one of its Geshas for US $21/lb. This set a new world record for the highest price ever paid for a coffee and sparked international interest in the variety, which still persists today.

Increasing competition

David Disuanco is the Marketing Manager at specialty roaster Archers Coffee in Sharjah, the United Arab Emirates. The company consistently buys Panamanian Gesha and recently successfully bid on several coffees at the 2024 BoP auction.

“Over the years, we have seen more and more Panamanian producers strive to rank highly at the BoP competition,” he says. “Each year, the competition gets more challenging as producers become more meticulous, creative, and innovative with their farming and processing techniques. This drives all participants to improve and elevate quality continuously.

“Producers are also becoming more diligent with cherry selection, hand-picking and sorting only the ripest ones,” he adds. “They have facilities that allow them to control specific parameters, such as custom-built processing tanks and dark rooms for drying.”

Archers recently successfully bid on several coffees at the 2024 BoP auction and secured limited-quantity lots from more than 30 of the country’s most prominent estates. Archers’ co-founder, Head of Operations, and green buyer, Frederick Bejo, who is also the UAE’s 2024 Brewer’s Cup Champion, was invited as a guest cupper to this year’s auction. 

“This is our craziest Panama Gesha collection, maybe even the greatest coffee collection we have had and encountered to date,” he says.

Why do washed coffees perform so well at BoP?

Panama’s terroir makes its Gesha truly unique. The country’s volcanic soil and diverse terrain create distinct microclimates, resulting in incredibly complex and delicate flavours.

Kai Janson is a producer at the pioneering Panamanian farm Janson Coffee, with which Archers Coffee works closely.

“The country’s coffee sector is passionate and dedicated to continuous innovation, from pioneers like the Petersons, Lamastuses, and my family – the Jansons,” he says. “Producers pay close attention to every aspect of production, from soil health to fermentation to drying, to deliver the best possible cup.”

When grown at high altitudes, Panama Gesha has an exceptionally high cup quality, with nuanced floral, jasmine, and fruity aromas and tasting notes. To highlight these as much as possible, many producers opt for washed processing.

“Washed Panama Gesha is often considered the purest form of expression of the variety as it showcases terroir without having too much influence over the flavours in the cup,” Kai says. “It’s also one of the most challenging processing methods, but it elevates the status of Panama Gesha to an elite level.”

Exceptional cup quality with washed processing is clearly evident. At the 2023 BoP auction, a washed 96.5-point Gesha from Carmen Estate received an incredible bid of US $10,005/kg – one of the highest prices ever paid for coffee.

Embracing the diversity of Gesha through processing

While the washed process may remain the most popular processing method for Gesha, an increasing number of producers in Panama are experimenting with different techniques.

Many are finding success, too, receiving exceptionally high scores and eye-watering prices. At the 2024 Lamastus Family Estates auction, the farm sold a honey processed 3kg lot for US $40,554 – or US $13,518 per kilogram – breaking the world record beyond all expectations.

Some producers are pushing innovation even further beyond the traditional washed, natural, and honey processing methods. One example is Altieri Specialty Coffee, which works with Archers Coffee to develop pioneering new techniques that unlock a spectrum of flavours in Gesha. 

“River flow fermentation is a technique we experimented with during the 2022/23 harvest,” the Altieri team says. “We measured how temperature impacts bacterial activity and how heat transfers differently in liquid compared to air. To achieve this, we anaerobically fermented fresh cherries in sealed silage plastic bags under running water.”

The Altieri team explains how this helps maintain a consistent temperature of 12°C (54°F), whereas stagnant water would increase the temperature. To dry the coffee, the cherries are placed in a dark room maintained at 18°C (64°F).

“The river flow fermentation process results in a fruitier flavour profile instead of a wine-like one,” the Altieri team tells me. “To our surprise, the low-temperature fermentation created floral notes. The intensity increases as you extend the fermentation hours, but the floral notes remain, enhancing notes of jasmine and adding complexity to the cup.”

In addition to processing techniques, Panamanian producers are also focusing on other farm-level improvements. Some are planting new trees to produce better-quality coffee in the coming years, while others are pruning plants to optimise nutrient absorption to improve cherry development.

How roasters and coffee shops can showcase the best of Gesha

Buying Gesha can be an exciting venture for coffee shops and roasters, allowing them to showcase excellent coffee and unique flavour profiles. Moreover, as the variety is such a unique selling point, including Gesha on bar or as part of retail offerings helps cafés and roasteries to differentiate their brands.

There are many ways to source Gesha, but participating in auctions can be one of the most effective to gain access to high-quality lots with interesting cup profiles. In recent years, Panamanian auctions have included an increasingly wide range of processing methods, too. This allows coffee businesses to tap into the diversity of Gesha and offer new experiences to customers.

David explains that Archers Coffee recently purchased four lots at the 2024 BoP auction, including: 

• An Adaura Gesha that ranked seventh in the naturals category
• A Luis Santamaria lot which ranked eighth in the naturals and ninth in the varietals categories, respectively
• A washed lot from Janson Coffee’s Las Alpes Estate 
• The La Higa Private Reserve Janson Gesha lot

“We purchased these coffees as they were the best lots that suited both our needs as a business and our customers’ preferences,” he says. He adds that these specific coffees were selected for their vibrant floral, citrus, and tropical fruit notes, as well as a distinctive mix of red and purple cherries.

Cuppings as a useful tool

To introduce the local coffee community of roasters, baristas, and home brewers to the diversity of Panamanian Gesha, David explains that Fred led a BoP-style cupping at Archers Coffee. This allowed the company’s baristas and roasters to understand the complexity of these coffees on a deeper level, improving their skills and knowledge.

“As we consistently provide high-quality Gesha, consumer perception of quality also evolves and improves,” says David. “They ask more questions, become more curious, and start appreciating the effort that goes into the coffee. 

“They begin to inquire more about the producer, the processing methods, and even often overlooked details, such as how a producer’s coffee tastes different this year compared to last,” he adds.

Archers Coffee recently launched its Ultimate Panama Collection, including high-quality Gesha lots from more than 15 Panamanian producers. The first release features 22 lots from eight producers, with additional lots to be launched in the coming weeks.

As one of the most highly-prized varieties in the world, Gesha has made a long-lasting mark on the specialty coffee industry. Innovative processing methods and continuous investments in production are opening up new ways to experience this coffee.

Coffee shops and roasters can source Gesha processed in a range of methods to showcase the variety’s flavour diversity. By doing so, customers can experience Gesha in ways they never have before, giving coffee businesses a competitive edge.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why some roasters are willing to spend US $10,000/kg on Gesha.

Photo credits: Archers Coffee

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